Tour de France Stage 14 – The Plateau de Beille
Sorry this all out of order. Ordinarily I'd provide some detail of the previous day's adventures but thought you'd want TDF stuff first and foremost!
What a nightmare. I've seriously learnt even more TDF tips about campervanning and watching the TDF on this stage.
We rolled into town after a long drive from the base of the Peyresourde which I knocked out from Arreau (do it from the Bagneres-de-Luchon side) late after driving most of the windy bloody TDF route.
We almost pulled the pin after failing to find a spot but perservered and got a spot in Verdun just a quick walk from Les Cabannes.
After shirking official parking in a big paddock we parked next to a French plater camper and had a read/drink only to find ourselves boxed in COMPLETELY by a bunch of Spaniards.
After pizza in town, we headed to bead. Incidentally a stage was set up and a band started playing – STRAIGHT INTO A PARKED VAN. France is a strange place full of strange people.
For instance, I present to you: myself in front of 2 empty paddocks. Now as an entrepreneurial young man, and owning some land near a TDF stage, I'd take it upon myself to organise parking here at the VERY REASONABLE PRICE of 20Eu a night with a free BBQ and electricity. The 10 fingers I am holding up indicate 500 parking spots x 20EU = 10K EU per paddock, not a bad days work in anyone's language. The French, though, seem largely content with sleeping till 10am and eating baguettes and croissants, whilst overlooking their empty paddocks.
Some zany Basques partied till 3.30AM then woke at 4AM for a BBQ breakfast (independently verified by some other Spaniards from Bilbao) and we awoke to a lot of car noise. The car park (and road) we'd parked in (and next to) the night before was packed and we were blocked in. We asked the other Bilbao-ish Spanish to move to which they happily acquiesced – one of them had been to Melbourne a few times so we chatted for a bit.
We moved the van to a big paddock then I headed up the Plateau for a pre-TDF smashfest. It was hot and humid. I am happy to report not one rider passed me; I smashed up. There were THOUSANDS of people in place at 10AM with many more walking up.
I spotted Didi and got a photo; stoked!
Paint was thick upon the road with a lot of support for Contador, Voeckler, Chavanel and Gilbert. There was also a lot of Clenbutador type commentary on the roads, some from Spaniards; clearly he is not a universally loved man like Captain Cuddles Cadel or that bloody chipper Voeckler.
Upon reaching the 4km to the summit banner, I was told “a pied” which means “by foot”. I scoffed at the Gendarme, and employing my most excellent Outflanken ze Gendarme experience, prepared to walk a bit then continue riding.
Alas, TDFTips is clearly Very Popular and the Gendarmerie have learned about our shenanigans vis-a-vis the sneaky Panzer-like outflanken. I regrettably turned for home, comforted by the thought I'd at least be down in time.
Here are some photos from my ride!
Arriving back at the ranch Kate and I relaxed for a bit then took off into town for a bit of food and to take in the festive atmosphere.
Lots of people around. The main road into Andorra; packed.
Jensie was up the road; life was good. We rolled up the road to the first corner which was a double hairpin and very pitchy – excellent running alongside riders, and photo opp spot!
And so the interminable TDF wait began. Kate began to get pretty excited and once the caravan rolled through all pretence of apathy was out the window as free sh$t began raining down thicker and forster than a Tony Grieg yorker (say that in a South African accent – apologies to all non-cricketing nation readers!).
Here's Bill. An awesome old British dude. He LOVED it.
Today Show T!
Pretty soon a anticipatory silence descended and the crowd pressed closer. The final gendarmes cleared the road and the thump of chopper rotors overhead announced the arrival of Sammy Sanchez, the gold highlights-wearing attacker!
The Basques screamed at him as an FdJ rider (Roy?) stuck with him. Pretty soon the main protagonists arrived and Captain Cuddles was right there laying the smack down horder and forster than a Merv Hughes bouncer (more cricket jokes in a Tony Grieg South African accent).
I ran with him for a bit (WHERE WERE ALL YOU AUSSIES I SPOTTED ON THE CORNER) and screamed at him to SCHNELL, SCHNELL!
He looked good, VERY good. If he can cover the Brothers Schleck who are racing very negatively, he might just crack it. The fingerbanger Contador does not look at his peak unless he is hedging.
Anyway, we rolled off a bunch of photos and variously cheered on Stuey O'Grady, Fabian holding the car a bit suspiciously, Chavanel then started walking off the hill to beat the rush out of town. It would be chaos later.
Soon the sprinters arrived with Thor passing us, then Renshaw then a smashed up Ten Dam. What a Big Ringing Bad Arse! The Green Jersey appeared looking non plussed.
Then it was over!
We practically ran back to the car to beat the rush. Which we did, just.
Some French park (and drive) like idiots, they were parked in marging lanes and on traffic islands on the main road into Andorra and we barely fit through.
Anyway, we got away and up into amazing Andorra, eventually finding a camping place just down from Soldeau (more on this later).
All in all, the BEST TDF stage I've seen. Killer!
Stay tuned for my wrap up covering tips and tricks and things to watch out for when watching a TDF stage.
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